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Use of Garden Tractor For Small areas
By Andrew Caxton

Decide Use of Garden Tractors Or Lawn Tractors

When you have a small garden the question of using the garden tractor seems like a waste of money. When a smaller lawn tractor will do your work equally well, why spend more money in buying the garden tractor? Well, there are some points in favor of both the ideas and we will take look at both sides of the coin.

Garden Tractor Vs Lawn Tractors

Lawn tractors: Smaller gardens with an area of less than 2 to 3 acres can make do with smaller tractors better known as lawn tractors. Essentially these are used for lawn mowing and no other work. If your garden is small and has only the lawn, you may continue to use the lawn tractor. Small lawn tractors have a capacity of about 4 to 6 HP.

However, if you do some gardening and have some agricultural produce, it makes sense to buy a garden tractor. The agricultural work involves loading and unloading of the agricultural inputs and outputs and it is difficult for lawn tractors to handle such loads. The attachments that can be attached to a lawn tractor are limited and it cannot definitely take the front end loader attachment that can be required for leveling the ground or flattening it.

The garden tractors are also useful to you in saving time for the other work. With lawn tractor, the time required for the same work will be much higher than the time required for equivalent work for a garden tractor. Since agricultural work is not the main business of a small landholder, it makes sense to have a tractor that can do the work quickly and get on with other jobs that you have in hand.

With a garden tractor, you can do many things that are impossible for the lawn mower to do with or without attachments. For example, you cannot use your lawn tractor for aerating the field, leveling the driveway, or hauling the firewood from far corners of your garden.

With a larger machine like a garden tractor, you can do many things that are unthinkable with small lawn tractors. The removal of stones in your garden or shifting of the stones for beautification of the garden are impossible to be done with small lawn tractor but it can be easily done with a small garden tractor and you can save lot of money in doing this.

Granted that the lawn tractor costs less money for purchase, but think of other jobs that you will be outsourcing in developing your garden and if you buy the garden tractor right at the start of your work, it will be economical to you in the longer run. If later you find it not being used completely, remember that it has saved you enough money to pay for itself and is still saving your time. Remember the wise old saying that ‘time is money’ and now you can save time and utilize it in higher yield business that you are in now.

The idle investment garden tractor can also make money for you if you rent it. If you are not the kind of person, who likes to rent his/her equipments, just remember that the garden tractor has done its work for you during the development stage of your garden and allow the garden tractor the well earned rest in your garden

So in the final analysis you will agree that using the tractor in a garden is a wise decision.

The writer Andrew Caxton publishes quite often new articles to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com, an online magazine specialized in lawn tractors and lawnmowers. Andrew helps people to find the best solutions for different types of gardens. Reach further information on garden tractors

 

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How To Control Weeds In Your Lawn
By Joe Knapp

There is a common misconception that certain plants are always weeds. By definition, that is not the case, because weeds are nothing more than undesirable plants. If you desire it, it is not a weed. A weed is nothing more than a plant growing where it is not wanted. A dandelion, for example, might be a weed if it is found in your lawn, whereas if you are planting a garden of dandelions, and grass starts growing there, the grass is the weed. There is a common misconception that certain plants are defined as weeds. By definition, however, that is not the case, because weeds are nothing more than undesirable plants. If you desire it, it is not a weed. Weeds ruin the aesthetic value of your garden, because they do not look nice in your garden, lawn, etc. However, the real problem with weeds is that they will compete with your flowers, grass, or plants for water and nutrients, further detracting from the beauty of whatever you are growing. In this article, I will primarily be talking about lawn weeds, how to identify, how to prevent them, and how to get rid of them.

Lawn weeds can be placed into two categories. The difference between these two categories is the way they physically grow form seeds. The categories are monocots and dicots. As the names might suggest, monocots emerge from the seed sprouting one leaf, whereas dicots emerge from the seed sprouting two leaves. Monocot weeds are usually referred to as weedy grasses; and dicots are usually referred to as broadleaf weeds. Monocots include crabgrass and quackgrass, to name a couple. Dicots include dandelions and clover, to name a couple.

There are three more main categories to split weeds up even further, one of which is split up into another two categories. Perennial weeds live for longer than two years and may produce new seeds every year. Biennial weeds have a two-year life-span and usually do not produce seeds until the second year. Biennial weeds and perennial weeds are often grouped together since they require the same action to get rid of them. Annual weeds germinate from seeds, grow fully and produce more seeds in less than one year. Summer annual weeds germinate in the spring and grow in the fall. Winter annual weeds germinate in the fall or winter and grow in the spring.

In many instances there is an easy solution to get rid of unwanted weeds. One way to prevent weeds from even becoming a problem is to maintain a dense turf cover. For example, if the weeds are growing due to a problem with how compacted the soil is, killing the weeds without fixing up the topsoil is a waste of time, since new weeds will replace the dead weeds in just a matter of time. Many times the problem can be fixed simply by changing how you care for your lawn. For example, it may be as simple as watering your lawn more often or less often than you currently do. The problem may be fixed by simply mowing a little higher or a little lower, or perhaps mowing a greater number of times or a fewer number of times. The problem may be fixed by fertilizing more or fertilizing less. Each case is different depending upon your practices and depending on the weeds and the climate.

There are a number of products you can buy to kill weeds. They can basically be broken into two main categories: pre-emergence herbicides and post-emergence herbicides. As their names suggest, pre-emergence herbicides are used to control weeds before the weeds emerge, and post-emergence herbicides are used to kill the weeds after they had already emerged. Therefore, pre-emergence herbicides are most effective against annual weeds. To be effective, pre-emergence herbicides must be applied a couple weeks before the weeds germinate. If they are applied too far in advance, or after the weeds had already germinated, they will usually be powerless to control the weeds. That is where post-emergence herbicides come into play.

Post-emergence herbicides can be split up into two categories: selective post-emergence herbicides, and non-selective post-emergence herbicides. Selective post-emergence herbicides are most commonly used on lawns, since they kill many broadleaf weeds without adversely effecting grass. However, this being the nature of post-emergence herbicides, they will often kill trees, bushes, or flowers. It is extremely important to be very careful when using post-emergence herbicides in the near vicinity of flowers, shrubs, trees, bushes, etc. Non-selective post-emergence herbicides kill everything they touch indiscriminately. Therefore, non-selective post-emergence herbicides should only be used to spot treat weeds, such as perennial grassy weeds that are unaffected by selective post-emergence herbicides.

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